Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Blog # 8: We’re back from our first expedition in Ecuador!

It’s crazy to think that we are already halfway through this journey together, and that we have finished our longest expedition. It was exciting, exhausting and absolutely amazing.

We began the last section with a 37 km leg of biking which somehow was the hardest day yet, with Laura struggling through an upset stomach, Harrison getting about five flat tires, the heat, and overall low group energy. We did however see a double rainbow!

Despite our many delays and breaks we made it to La Serena in plenty of time. Our campsite was across a very long footbridge from the road, so we spent the evening portaging all our river gear from the truck to our camp and then spent the next morning bringing our bike gear back across the river to the truck. The rest of the morning was spent practicing using throw ropes, swimming in the Rio Jatunyacu, and preparing the cataraft, kayaks and little white raft affectionately called the schnitzel for the journey. In the afternoon it poured as it does only in the jungle. Just as the rain began to slow down we went up the river a bit to take some solo reflection time on the most gorgeous beach I have ever seen. Across the river a cliff covered in green leaves and jutting rocks rose above us and all around us the mist from the rain was rising and the mountains were reaching up into the far off storm clouds. We spent the night in La Serena again and left on the rafts the next morning led by Thomas, Ango, Nicole, Laurel and Nadino. Parts of the river were reasonably calm, parts were very rough and turbulent, and all of it was hot and sunny and beautiful. At one point our river joined into the Rio Napo, one of the main rivers that creates the Amazon. We arrived at our next camp in the early afternoon after flipping the schnitzel raft only once and spent the afternoon working on kayak skills and practicing flipping. That night we slept on the beach, grateful for our tents to keep the jungle bugs away and to provide some separation from the sand.

Our next campsite, 25 kms down the river was even more beautiful, tucked away under the trees where the riverbank met the jungle, surrounded by the sounds of the rainforest.

On Monday we took apart the cataraft, and sent everything possible back to Palugo so that we could hike through the jungle into the community of Shiwacocha. We said goodbye to Ango and Thomas and were rejoined by Mathias and Ayra. It was amazing for us to contrast the grassy highlands of the weeks before with the hot, humid, buggy rainforest as we hiked. The leaves were bigger than Ayra, the sounds so distinctly rainforest-y and everywhere were plants competing for sunlight.

In the late afternoon we made it to our final destination: the home of Isolina, Nadino’s mother. She fed us yucca and plantain, sang with us, and sent us to sleep on mattresses in a beautiful room on stilts. We spent the next two days hauling sand and carrying wood to various houses to help out, swimming in the Arunjuno river, munching on sugar cane, getting eaten alive by ants and immersing ourselves in such a totally different culture. With Nadino’s grandfather and uncle we made baskets (which frustrated some of us more than others) and with Isolina we made traditional pilche bowls out of the fruit that grows from the Pilche tree. Our last night in the jungle we learned the traditional dance of the Quechua, the biggest indigenous culture in Ecuador.

They next morning we were up at 3:30 to experience morning in the jungle and to prepare to leave. Some of us also chose to put hot peppers in our eyes as a traditional way of gaining clearer sight, literally and figuratively, and it can only be done in the early morning when the day is cool and the peppers less potent. After breakfast on Friday we said goodbye to Shiwacocha and all 19 of us piled onto the reassembled cataraft to float down the river to where we could get a bus back home. It took most of the day since none of us really felt like paddling and instead we spent the time floating on balsa logs or on the tube pulled behind the raft.

We took apart the cataraft one last time to get it on the bus, and then all piled in for the five hour ride up the Andes and back to Palugo.

Today we are cleaning up from expedition, sorting gear, and decompressing after the high energy of the last 25 days. Tomorrow we will close this chapter of Semester and switch gears to crafts and academic work for the next few weeks.

Hasta Luego,
Mary Kate

Distance traveled this leg: 105km
Total Distance for the whole Expedition: about 450 to 473km




Reflections

The Jungle
I can remember drawing the colorful layers of the jungle in 4th grade with pencils on my main lesson paper. I remember using browns and dark greens and some reds to carefully draw in each layer from earthen floor to high canopy. I didn’t know if I would ever actually visit the jungle but now I am here. It is alive and different but certainly not as organized as my page drawing. Here the forest floor crawls with insects of all shapes and sizes, insects so foreign to me I am wary when our paths cross. Here the trees are laced with vines and the leaves are ten times bigger than any leaf at home. I cant decipher the separate layers from which the forest grows, the floor crawls into the middle layers of small trees and shrubs and from there up to the higher reaches of the canopy and finally to the wheeling birds in the changing sky. The jungle sings and moves constantly to its own heartbeat.
~ Elsbeth


Sometimes we need to sit down and look and the mountains and wonder
and hope to be inspired
Hope to be inspired be the quiet greatness of things which are
The greatness of vast expanses of lakes, fields, and the heights of
mountains
And like it came the falling of my soul, a blade of grass in a sea of green.
Quiero ser mas paciente
I fell into my deep dream
I spiraled into the night
Until I unfound myself amidst the stars
and found myself again
watching the stars
For we are the manifestations of the wisdom that is the universe.
The day will end.

~ Group poem, each line written by a different person



















Sunday, October 26, 2014

We made it over the Andes!

We made it over the Andes! 

Since the last blog post we’ve biked 200+ kilometers across the mountains and are by now sitting in Ashanga, a thatched roof over our heads and jungle all around us.

We left for our next stage of expedition with a beautiful downhill trail. After a short back track on cobblestone roads we passed our pre-San Clemente soccer field campsite in Zuleta, and biked (or pushed our bikes) up very muddy, very, steep hills. Upon reaching a nice plateau the road ended and we decided to bushwalk. In theory the road we wanted was just over the next hill, but after bravely pushing our bikes through branches and thorns for almost two hours, we were forced to turn around and bike all the way back to our former Zuleta soccer field. It was rainy. And muddy. And dark. And cold. It was all looking pretty dreary until the president  of the community stopped by and lend us the community house for the night. It was beautiful, with a huge kitchen and magnificent wood stair case leading to an open upstairs. After such a though day of futile, muddy biking we felt as though we have landed in a warm, welcoming paradise. 

The next morning we set out early to catch up from our detour the of the day before.  Thirty-five uphill, rainy kilometers later we were biking up to Bernardo’s beautiful house complete with soup and Mathias, Nicole and Ayra to welcome us. After filling our bellies with food and warming our bodies by the fire we slept all cuddled up by the covered porch. Saturday morning we said goodbye to Nicole and Ayra for the next leg and set off into the mountains. That night we camped next to Rio Pisambilla in the windy highlands and the rain miraculously cleared to offer us our first sun all day.

Sunday, we slept in a bit and set off, biking up, and up and up. We ate a good lunch on the Continental divide and decided to cut te day short to avoid the afternoon showers. We spent the night a few kilometers down the road in the ranger’s office of the Cayambe Coca National Park. It was nice to have the afternoon to take care of our bikes and dry up our clothes.

Bright and early Monday morning we left for the hot springs on our first group solo (although it wasn’t truly a group solo as Bethany returned to Palugo with Nadino to recover from altitude sickness). We were told that it was a long ride that could take hours and hopefully we would arrive  at the hot springs in time for a quick dip before dinner. Imagine our surprise and joy when after five and a half hours later we were arriving in time for lunch! The ride was breathtakingly gorgeous with clouds setting below us, the Andes rising all around us and waterfalls cascading on either side. Without Laurel, Mathias or anyone to lead us we fell on our own rhythm, not led by one but each an indispensable part of the whole. Upon arriving to the hot springs we set up camp in record time, ate lunch and enjoyed the hot water for a very long time. It was fantastic. Bethany rejoined us for dinner, fully recovered after a day off the mountains.

The next morning we were off to bike a normally 2 day route over the Gucamayos mountain range and into the jungle. In 10 and a half hours we bikes 110 kms and went from 4300 meters above sea level to mere 500 meters. It was amazing to see and feel the chance from the sparse shrubs up in the mountains to the lush green trees and huge leaves of the jungle. It was also exhausting to bike such a long time even if it was mostly downhill, so today we slept in and are taking a rest day. Soon we will set off on the cataraft for the last stage of our expedition

Hasta Luego


Mary Kate







Thursday, October 16, 2014

Buenas tardes from San Clemente!

After four days of biking we are at last in this beautiful highland community staying with host families and resting after the physical challenges of the last few days.

We left Palugo only about an hour late on Friday morning and biked a flat-ish 20 kilometers to Checa where we spend the night among avocados trees. Between arriving and dinner we had time to visit a nearby Tuna (prickly pear) farm where we learned about growing cactus in such an arid landscape and wandered the jungle-like garden eating cactus and grapes.

Saturday morning bright and early we left for a long day of biking. It was our most technically challenging biking so far, as well as the farthest distance and we all met the challenges admirably. We even picked up a new friend, Ezequiel, who kept us company and laughed at our attempts at explaining things in Spanish. We didn’t quite make our goal of 54 km but instead camped just past the equator in Cayambe. The next morning we stopped right on the Equator, half of us in the northern and half in the southern hemisphere. We continued on into the north and spent the night in Zuleta and biked the last 12 km to San Clemente. San Clemente is an agricultural community up in the highlands, they have a strong connection to Madre Tierra (mother earth) and the surrounding mountains.

We arrived just in time for lunch and after quick introductions we split into groups of two and three for home-stays. Laura, Bethany and I were together with Mama Blanca. It was wonderful to share in her daily routine and lifestyle. We all helped out our families with daily chores, ate with them, and shared our stories. We came together again during the day to plant corn and beans, to embroider shirts and to dance to traditional music.

Tonight we are staying even higher up the mountain and tomorrow we will be off again to bike over the Andes… 

Hasta luego,
Mary Kate


Statistics from the trip:
Flat tires: 17
Toilets clogged: 4 (that we are admitting to)
Total distance: 95 kms

REFLECTIONS

Being around people is a very important thing but in order to be around people you need to know yourself in a way that no one else can understand you.  I personally do not know myself very well and so that is something  I need to get to know as well as getting to know people on a one-to-one manner to really know that person in-depth. Knowing myself and someone else in such a deep way is something I wish for although it may be an impossible thing to wish for.
Lara Weise

Reflection on the Prickly Pear Farm
After a fair bit of circling, we found it, an oasis of jungle hidden behind a battered steel door. We rode through the opening into a different world. Parking our bikes on a narrow road lined with coco trees and exotic plants, our enthusiastic guide showed us around his creation narrating in broken english, rapid Spanish, and universal hand motions. We walked through a thick patch of cultivated jungle, munching on Pumarosa fruit, careful to avoid the thorns. Eventually, we broke out into a field of cultivated plants. An exuberant mixture of prickly pear, black berry, cover crops and more I could not identify.
Adin
The team begins their journey


Amy sawing wood





Wicho farming

Elsbeth flying in Ecuador on Nadino's feet.


Lara summiting a hill with other semester students in her dust.

Laurel farming.

Lucas farming

Rose with a smile


Mathias, Arya, Nicole, and Amy learn to work the land with the natives.

Laura and Harrison work together to hoe the fields.

Izzy learns from a native woman about embroidery.

A native man teaches the semester about various local grains. 

The semester celebrating their journey!

Monday, October 6, 2014

Buenos dias from Palugo!


We’ve really settled into life here on the equator just in time to head off on expedition. This week we spent much of our time on academics and making our very own cuchillos (knives).

Last Friday we had our first herb class with Marcea where we made salves (!) and began work on our knives. We made the handles from a cherry burl Laurel found back in New England and each piece is beautifully unique. We also made leather sheaths, and sewing them was so tough we had to use pliers to pull the needles through (we’ve broken four needles so far).

This week we also had Permaculture class with Thomas and Geography with Michael. We learned that drinkable water in Palugo comes from a beautiful spring on the side of a thorny cliff and that the Andes are formed by the collision of the South American Tectonic plate with the Nasca plate. In both classes we went on walks through Palugo and got a chance to actually see what we were learning about. With Michael we also climbed to Jatumloma, the highest point in Palugo and our first summit! From that height we could see the terra cotta roofs of the houses down below, tucked into the trees and gardens. Across the valley we saw the community of Palugo, and beyond that the mountains looking impossibly grand. It was sunny and windy and magnificent.

Yesterday, Wednesday, we finished up our academic work and had a fantastic health/ nutrition / revolution class with Marcea and Marcela in which we all joined the anti-stagnation movement and learned to listen to our mental, emotional, spiritual and physical bodies.

Today we are packing:  packing all the food we’ve been dehydrating, packing our personal belongings, packing the gear we will need to bike up the Andes and raft to the headwaters of the Napo river. We leave early Friday morning and will be out for 21 days! I will be sending out updates with each resupply to let you know of our latest challenges and adventures!

Hasta Luego,

Mary Kate


Reflections:


They watch me as I wander
As I wander the world
They hold the power I yearn to have
To forever move, forever shift

A lonesome wisp in the painting of a sky
A place where the paintbrush slipped in the vast expanse of blue
Content with isolation
A dimmer switch of daylight
Billowing, ominous, unscathed by thunder

I watch them become a mirror for the nervous colors of dawn’s first light
They watch me wander
I watch their tendrils creep
Creep into crevaces, valleys of far off mountain peaks
They watch me wander

Never the same always changing
Shifting, moving
They watch me wander the world.

~ Izzy


Dale Vida  a Tus Suenos

Dale vida a tus suenos aliementan
tu alma, no los confudas nunca con realidades
y aunque tu mente siento necesidad humana
de conseguir tus metos y escalar montanas.
Nunca robas tus suenos

Aunque te llamen loco
no dejas que tus suenos
se mueran de poco a poco,
no le quites las alas
dejalas que vivelen contigo
en compania.

Dale vida a tus suenos
a tus metas, tus anhelos
tocaras las estrellas y
el viento te cantara los
secretos que para ti
han guardado

Dale vida a tus suenos
que tienes escondidos
descubriras que puedes vivir
esos momentos con los ojos abiertos, los miedos dormidos
y tus suenos despiertos.

~ Wicho

Description:
I am sitting on a rock in the center of a dusty dirt road. The road is lined with weathered fence posts, and from them hang three rows of barbed wire that are intertwined with a mixture of tangled, thorny vines, grasses and thirsty shrubs. A fly buzzes around me, stopping once or twice on my knee to clean its tiny hand. Apart from the fly and the yellow-brown grass shaking with the wind all is still.
            The sun beats down from straight above, heating the angular black rocks that lie just beneath the dirt of the road. About twenty feet in front of me, where the road curves down to the left and out of sight, a dry tree pushes back two others in the fight for height. This tree’s trunk is covered with holes stubs of dead branches, and lichen. After twisting its way above the surrounding brush it sends out thousands of twig-like branches sparsly covered in leaves.
            Above distant mountains hang clouds. They slowly drift towards me; building upon themselves. With them comes much needed rain.

~  Isaiah





Ayra helping keep gear at its best.

Mary Kate, Elsbeth, Lucas, and Emma ready to ride.

Elsebeth and Izzy holding something special.

Mathias and Lucas working on bikes.

Laura working on her knife handle.


Meal preparation in the Outdoor Kitchen.


Lara studying the maps.


Mary Kate labeling food containers.

Working hard in the food room to prepare for expedition.