We made it over the
Andes!
Since the last blog post we’ve biked 200+ kilometers across the
mountains and are by now sitting in Ashanga, a thatched roof over our heads and
jungle all around us.
We left for our next
stage of expedition with a beautiful downhill trail. After a short back track
on cobblestone roads we passed our
pre-San Clemente soccer field campsite in Zuleta, and biked (or pushed our
bikes) up very muddy, very, steep hills. Upon reaching a nice plateau the road
ended and we decided to bushwalk. In theory the road we wanted was just over
the next hill, but after bravely pushing our bikes through branches and thorns
for almost two hours, we were forced to turn around and bike all the way back
to our former Zuleta soccer field. It was rainy. And muddy. And dark. And cold.
It was all looking pretty dreary until the president of the community stopped by and lend us the
community house for the night. It was beautiful, with a huge kitchen and magnificent
wood stair case leading to an open upstairs. After such a though day of futile,
muddy biking we felt as though we have landed in a warm, welcoming paradise.
The next morning we set out early to catch up from our detour the of the day
before. Thirty-five uphill, rainy kilometers later we were biking up to Bernardo’s beautiful
house complete with soup and Mathias, Nicole and Ayra to welcome us. After
filling our bellies with food and warming our bodies by the fire we slept all
cuddled up by the covered porch. Saturday morning we said goodbye to Nicole and
Ayra for the next leg and set off into the mountains. That night we camped next
to Rio Pisambilla in the windy highlands and the rain miraculously cleared to offer us our first sun all day.
Sunday, we slept in a bit and set off, biking
up, and up and up. We ate a good lunch on the Continental divide and decided to
cut te day short to avoid the afternoon showers. We spent the night a few
kilometers down the road in the ranger’s office of the Cayambe Coca National Park. It was nice to have the
afternoon to take care of our bikes and dry up our clothes.
Bright and early
Monday morning we left for the hot springs on our first group solo (although it
wasn’t truly a group solo as Bethany returned to Palugo with Nadino to recover from altitude sickness). We
were told that it was a long ride that could take hours and hopefully we would
arrive at the hot springs in time for a
quick dip before dinner. Imagine our surprise and joy when after five and a
half hours later we were arriving in time for lunch! The ride was
breathtakingly gorgeous with clouds setting below us, the Andes rising all
around us and waterfalls cascading on either side. Without Laurel, Mathias or
anyone to lead us we fell on our own rhythm, not led by one but each an
indispensable part of the whole. Upon arriving to the
hot springs we set up camp in record time, ate lunch and enjoyed the hot water
for a very long time. It was fantastic. Bethany rejoined us for dinner, fully
recovered after a day off the mountains.
The next morning we
were off to bike a normally 2 day route over the Gucamayos mountain range and
into the jungle. In 10 and a half hours we bikes 110 kms and went from 4300
meters above sea level to mere 500 meters. It was amazing to see and feel the
chance from the sparse shrubs up in the mountains to the lush green trees and
huge leaves of the jungle. It was also exhausting to bike such a long time even
if it was mostly downhill, so today we slept in and are taking a rest day. Soon
we will set off on the cataraft for the last stage of our expedition
Hasta Luego
Mary Kate
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