Sunday, October 26, 2014

We made it over the Andes!

We made it over the Andes! 

Since the last blog post we’ve biked 200+ kilometers across the mountains and are by now sitting in Ashanga, a thatched roof over our heads and jungle all around us.

We left for our next stage of expedition with a beautiful downhill trail. After a short back track on cobblestone roads we passed our pre-San Clemente soccer field campsite in Zuleta, and biked (or pushed our bikes) up very muddy, very, steep hills. Upon reaching a nice plateau the road ended and we decided to bushwalk. In theory the road we wanted was just over the next hill, but after bravely pushing our bikes through branches and thorns for almost two hours, we were forced to turn around and bike all the way back to our former Zuleta soccer field. It was rainy. And muddy. And dark. And cold. It was all looking pretty dreary until the president  of the community stopped by and lend us the community house for the night. It was beautiful, with a huge kitchen and magnificent wood stair case leading to an open upstairs. After such a though day of futile, muddy biking we felt as though we have landed in a warm, welcoming paradise. 

The next morning we set out early to catch up from our detour the of the day before.  Thirty-five uphill, rainy kilometers later we were biking up to Bernardo’s beautiful house complete with soup and Mathias, Nicole and Ayra to welcome us. After filling our bellies with food and warming our bodies by the fire we slept all cuddled up by the covered porch. Saturday morning we said goodbye to Nicole and Ayra for the next leg and set off into the mountains. That night we camped next to Rio Pisambilla in the windy highlands and the rain miraculously cleared to offer us our first sun all day.

Sunday, we slept in a bit and set off, biking up, and up and up. We ate a good lunch on the Continental divide and decided to cut te day short to avoid the afternoon showers. We spent the night a few kilometers down the road in the ranger’s office of the Cayambe Coca National Park. It was nice to have the afternoon to take care of our bikes and dry up our clothes.

Bright and early Monday morning we left for the hot springs on our first group solo (although it wasn’t truly a group solo as Bethany returned to Palugo with Nadino to recover from altitude sickness). We were told that it was a long ride that could take hours and hopefully we would arrive  at the hot springs in time for a quick dip before dinner. Imagine our surprise and joy when after five and a half hours later we were arriving in time for lunch! The ride was breathtakingly gorgeous with clouds setting below us, the Andes rising all around us and waterfalls cascading on either side. Without Laurel, Mathias or anyone to lead us we fell on our own rhythm, not led by one but each an indispensable part of the whole. Upon arriving to the hot springs we set up camp in record time, ate lunch and enjoyed the hot water for a very long time. It was fantastic. Bethany rejoined us for dinner, fully recovered after a day off the mountains.

The next morning we were off to bike a normally 2 day route over the Gucamayos mountain range and into the jungle. In 10 and a half hours we bikes 110 kms and went from 4300 meters above sea level to mere 500 meters. It was amazing to see and feel the chance from the sparse shrubs up in the mountains to the lush green trees and huge leaves of the jungle. It was also exhausting to bike such a long time even if it was mostly downhill, so today we slept in and are taking a rest day. Soon we will set off on the cataraft for the last stage of our expedition

Hasta Luego


Mary Kate







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